Fidi is one of the super cool faux trendy neighborhood names that realtors and Taylor Swift are trying to popularize in their quest to make already famous locations easier to hash tag. In the 140 character era, “Fidi” just seems cuter and less imposing than “The Financial District” or “Wall Street!” Nomenclature aside, the area is filled with both business people looking to relax on their off-hours and tourists that hunger for the next hot spot.
Last winter, I had an opportunity to visit The Malthouse’s West Village location, and its Fidi branch managed to be a completely different experience for me, set over three expansive levels and sporting a revitalized and reinvented menu thanks to Chef Armando Avila. While many of the dishes I enjoyed uptown were offered here, the majority of what I tasted had been improved or altered in some big ways.
The décor was nothing short of stunning with brick, wood, glass, and steel all interlaced together in a massive building with the space between the floor and the ceiling feeling almost limitless at times. It’s an impressive, architectural feat, considering the building was once a mere deli. The bar in particular stands out as a shimmering crescent of wood against a rainbow ocean of bottled wines, beers, and spirits. Definitely one of the best places in the city to have a power luncheon!
The meal began with some tiny mushroom bites, tasty hors d’oeuvres that consisted of a duxelle, a mixture of minced mushrooms and onions, served atop bread with a bit of umami truffle aioli. Like a kind of inverted stuffed mushroom, the dish was packed with savory flavor, heightened with the aioli. The truffle flavor made my taste buds flutter. I only wish they had been more than bites.
Our second snack was a simple and elegant cheese plate consisting of pungent Tallegio and creamy Camembert. The two cheeses complemented each other well and were served with ample fruit preserves and nuts. While French fries and cheese curds still make an appearance here, there definitely are more upscale offerings at the Fidi location.
The third appetizer was a corn chowder. Amazingly, despite its creamy and viscous texture, it was made only from pureed corn and garnished with crispy onions and chives that added crunchiness and zest.
Next came slow-braised Short Rib Sliders and Truffle Fries. The sliders were packed with meat. The fries were covered with perfect amounts of herbs, truffle oil, Parmesan cheese, and salt. Again, while The Malt House Fidi certainly exudes higher class, it’s grittier American comfort options continue to be excellent and high quality in their execution
The main courses followed in rapid succession with Fish Tacos and Salmon Po Boy on the lighter end of things. Blackened, spicy salmon, meaty swordfish, and delicate mahi mahi all highlighted Chef ‘s talent in choosing and preparing fresh seafood, with the fish tacos peppered with latin-inspired spices and salsas that varied from sweet to fiery.
However, it was the revitalized Malt House Wagyu Burger that captivated me the most. All the toppings just coalesced together in a brilliant symphony of seasonings and flavor. The bacon was crunchy at first bite, but succulent as a whole, melting into the tangy, creamy pesto, which was in turn complemented by the ripe acidity of the sweet tomato, which contrasted with the tangy but not unwelcome kick of pickles.
I haven’t even gotten to the meat yet, which was so tender and moist it bordered on deliquescent, the hallmark of a good piece of wagyu meat. Wagyu is Japanese for Japanese Cow, but in the states, it specifically refers to specially bred bovine that enjoy a luxurious lifestyle of fresh beer and massages. Put simply, the muscles of a wagyu cow are relaxed and tender to the point of being buttery. One bite is enough to really understand what it means to eat something and say it melts in your mouth.
Sandwiched between two piping hot and sturdy buns, the Malthouse Burger is a monstrosity and a marvel that I could not recommend more. As someone who has been avoiding red meat lately, I can say that this burger is a perfect poison that you will never regret while you are savoring it.
For dessert, we were offered luxurious Manchego-filled crepes and cheesecake, both covered in berries and berry sauce. I had little room in my stomach left, but I was extremely impressed by the complexity of the crepes, as they took salty, full-bodied Manchego and caramelized the cheese into a filling that was salty yet saccharine at the same time.
Once again, owners Darren Shore and Eoin Foyle have made magic in Manhattan. I’ll definitely be returning to The Malthouse Fidi for my next celebration dinner (even if I have to invent something to celebrate).
The Malthouse Financial District
Address: 9 Maiden Lane (Between Broadway and Nassau Street), New York, NY.
Number: (646) 682 – 7577
Monday-Friday: 11 AM-12 AM Midnight
Saturday and Sunday Brunch: 11 AM-4 PM
Saturday and Sunday Dinner: 4 PM- 12 AM
Happy Hour is 4 PM – 6 PM on Week Days
On Sundays, all bottles of wine are half-price!