Chouchou: A Romantic French-Moroccan Rendezvous

Hidden behind a sultry, unmarked storefront, Chouchou is easy to miss, but impossible to forget. No sign or lights mark the way to this secret corner.

Gaining its name from a French phrase that acts as a term of endearment, best likened to “darling,” the restaurant has plenty of critical praise and positive press despite its unassuming façade.

I can honestly say that Chouchou a place I would never have found if I had not been invited to a private tasting dinner.

Its Moroccan menu primarily offers two sets of either meat or vegetables: tagine and couscous. It looks very limited, but between the execution and the parade of familiar Mediterranean appetizers, it’s a charming and engaging journey. Executive Chef Meryem Michra is talented at all the classics, but also has plenty of twists in store.

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Hummus, baba ganoush, pita, and shakshuka all make an appearance here. I found them simple yet well executed in the standard fashion.

The most exciting of the appetizers were large deviled eggs filled with paprika and other spices. Mostly known as being a European appetizer, Chouchou’s version has plenty of personality. They were creamy and smooth with a lightly peppery yet satisfyingly umami flavor that contrasted with their cool temperature. They served us three halves that I would have gladly devoured all by myself. When a fellow diner admitted they were allergic to yolks, their portion found a most happy home in my gullet.

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Amongst the entrees, I was most impressed with the chicken and lamb tagines.

The chicken tagine was pleasing in both appearance and flavor. Its golden skin was streaked with crimson. Chef Meryem told me she bastes it with herbs then cooks it in the olive sauce before baking the flavor into it again. The result ends up being moist morsels of mainly dark meat encased in a crispy cocoon of skin.

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If it weren’t for the bones, I would have thought the lamb was more liquid than solid. It slid off that easily. Served with plump apricots and prunes sweet as candy, it was a savory, refreshing oasis devoid of gamey toughness or bitterness.

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For dessert, we enjoyed some tiny almond cookies and other assorted pastries. With hints of aromatic spices between each breaded bite, I felt a bit like I was carried on a desert wind.

I would like to give special mention to the green tea, which was poured in the traditional, flashy Moroccan fashion—from a great height. It acted as the perfect palette cleanser between courses and very much both woke me up and welcomed me with invigorating doses of sugar. It was so lively and refreshing I opted to skip out on the wine in favor of more of that sweet, sweet tea.

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Between the meat, the tea, and those luscious deviled eggs, Chouchou is definitely a restaurant I hope to revisit. For now, it will remain in the shadows, but seldom does a secret spot like this stay that way for long.

Chouchou

Address: 215 East 4th Street (Between Avenues A & B)

Website: http://www.chouchounyc.com

Phone: (646) 869-1423

Hours:  5:30 PM-12:00 AM Midnight from Tuesday to Sunday. Closed on Mondays.

The Egg Shop: Put All Your Eggs in This Basket

Freshman year of high school, my biology teacher, Ms. Ezratty, a former nutritionist, told our class that eggs are “nature’s perfect little food”—a lesson that has most certainly resonated with me into my young adult years. Now you might not know this from my prior blog entries, but a good egg sandwich is practically the centerpiece of my morning routine. Quick in preparation, full of flavors, and readily adaptable, this emissary of essential proteins and energy-revitalizing carbohydrates is a great way to start one’s day—and now there’s a place that’s crafting them from 8 AM to 11 PM! If eggs are nature’s pride and joy, then The Egg Shop on Elizabeth Street is a reminder that mankind remains limitless in its innovation.

Scrambled? Sunny Side Up? As a salad? The Egg Shop’s menu is surprisingly diverse for a restaurant themed around eggs with everything from salmon to pulled pork to the more obvious bacon offered on its many sandwiches. More health-conscious customers have plenty of choices such as an egg-white sandwich with spinach, tomato, or avocado among other toppings in addition to gluten-free English muffins. Regardless of style, I am assured each egg is both organic and locally farmed. There’s also French toast, Greek-style yogurt, and fried chicken (playing second fiddle as a side dish) if you want to explore other avenues.

The Reformer comes with  feta, spinach, and tomato. Add an avocado for an extra $2!

The Reformer comes with feta, spinach, and tomato. Add an avocado for an extra $2!

 

Think Build-A-Bear Workshop But with Egg Sandwiches

On my first visit, I opted to craft a custom-egg sandwich, asking for sunny side up on a buttermilk biscuit with gruyere cheese, caramelized onion aoli, and avocado (just in case It wasn’t hearty or fatty enough). The end result was superb—a fantasia of creamy, gooey goodness. The eggs were perfectly fried and runny in the center with a delicate slice of Gruyere. The buttermilk biscuits made for perfectly battered bookends, sopping up the aioli as well as the yolk after it burst. I don’t think I’ll ever find a better base for an egg sandwich–just make sure to be careful, they do have a tendency to crumble in your hands (I found the debris totally worth scooping up).

My Super Creamy Custom Egg Sandwich!

My Super Creamy Custom Egg Sandwich!

Enjoying the perverse pleasure of gorging on both child and parent in the same meal, I also sunk my teeth into the fried chicken. Seasoned with a bold but pleasing amount of sweetness in traditionally crispy, crunchy skin I found it unbelievably scrumptious for a so-called side dish. A must-order tidbit for breakfast or lunch!

Fried Chicken makes any good thing better!

Fried Chicken makes any good thing better!

On a return visit, I ordered one of the Cruisers (eggs in a bowl). The Spandex stood out out as a healthy option that didn’t skimp on flavor, pairing a perfectly poached egg with fresh veggies and miso-infused quinoa.

The Spandex. There are SO many veggies, it's difficult to see the quinoa!

The Spandex. There are SO many veggies, it’s difficult to see the quinoa!

 

What can I say about The Egg Shop? It was egg-cellent, egg-ceeded all egg-spectations. Ok, I’m done 🙂

All in all, owners Sara Schneider and Demetri Makoulis have truly gone out of their way in hatching a unique concept. The Egg Shop delivers great food and fair prices in a welcoming atmosphere of a space that left me wholly satisfied and never made me feel like a cooped-up chicken, though maybe a well fed one.

Flawlessly eggs-ecuted and that's no yolk!

Flawlessly eggs-ecuted and that’s no yolk!

The Egg Shop

Address: 151 Elizabeth Street (near Kenmare)

Website: EGGSHOPNYC.COM

(646) 666 0810

 

Yuji Ramen: The Little Test Kitchen That Could

A Little Rant

Ramen, like sushi, is a Japanese dish that has nestled itself into America’s eating consciousness, though this isn’t always a positive thing. Ask a typical American college student what they think of ramen and you might get a groan or a chuckle and maybe a story about “that one week I couldn’t leave my dorm” or an anecdote about the dangers of a high sodium diet. Like several actors’ careers (I’m looking at you Adam Sandler), ramen appears to get by due to its ease of preparation, availability, and overall infamy–people are willing to overlook just how cheap and terrible for their life it might because it’s a familiar, reliable poison. However, I digress. Most of these grievances are reserved for the microwave and instant variants of ramen. Put simply, there is good, gourmet ramen out there, just not at most grocery stores. . . Whole Foods on the Bowery, however, is a game changer!

Revolutionary Ramen

Located in the form of a counter on the second floor of an ordinary-looking Whole Foods, Yuji Ramen is an extraordinary eatery that takes one’s assumptions about ramen and flambes them into sweet, delicious oblivion. Starting off as a Smorgasburg vendor then a Whole Foods-sponsored pop up shop, Yuji’s popularity has earned it a permanent placement upstairs and a large, loyal following. After eating countless bowl upon bowl of noodle-filled Nirvana, I have to say this positive reception is completely deserved.

Most people might doubt that a ramen-based restaurant could succeed in catering to different clients and tastes, but Yuji offers customers two radically different types of ramen.

The “Daily Shoyu” is your typical meat broth-based ramen but comes with the added twist of being different just about every day. Using fresh cuts of meat from the Whole Foods butcher, Yuji ensures a uniquely delicious experience every day of the week. From blue fish to tuna to mussels to pork to turkey, the shoyu is a favorite for carnivores and a delight on a cold winter day.

Daily Shoyu with Blue and Lamb

Daily Shoyu with Bluefish and Lamb

The second type of ramen is the “mazeman” a newer variant that is made without broth and cooked by an open flame. Using a profusion of savory oils, fresh ingredients that alternate between crunchy and gooey, and perfectly firm and textured noodles, Yuji’s mazeman is a refined kind of ramen that one might liken to an al-dente pasta dish. Instead of your standard pork or chicken, Yuji brings customers original and dazzling concoctions like Smokey Bacon and Poached Egg with Kale or Salmon and Cheese. Spicy Tuna and Uni Miso (Sea Urchin) also have their own mazeman on the menu. For vegetarians, there’s also a Miso Roasted Vegetable mazeman, though I admit I have never sampled it because of my love for the meat and seafood selections.

Smokey Bacon and Poached Egg Mazeman on the left, Uni Miso cooked in Sake on the right.

Smokey Bacon and Poached Egg Mazeman on the left, Uni Miso cooked in Sake on the right.

At roughly $9 a pop, Yuji’s prices are reasonable for an up and coming business, and certainly for the quality of the ramen you get. I typically find that one Shoyu leaves me stuffed. However, when it comes to the mazeman, I usually try to make room for two–they’re just THAT yummy. For $12 you can get the combo with cold barley tea and pickled vegetables on the side. Starting this year, Yuji is offering a small selection of desserts.  Additionally, every month, Yuji offers a full seven-course Omakase (Chef’s Choice) Dinner. I plan on sampling it and presenting my findings later this year.

If you like creamy things, meat or fish, or noodles of any kind, then I highly recommend you give Yuji a visit soon–you’ll probably run into me sometime!

Yuji Ramen

Address: 95 E. Houston Street, 2nd floor. 

Phone Number: 212-420-1320, extension. 281

Website: http://yujiramen.com

Open all week from 11 AM to 9:30 PM.

Artistic Rendering of Yuji's Mazeman Selection

Artistic Rendering of Yuji’s Mazeman Selection