Sel Et Poivre Revisited: The Game Festival

Three years since visiting and reviewing Sel Et Poivre, I was invited back to taste some new and varied offerings on the restaurant’s traditional French menu.  The restaurant was busy and lively as ever with a surprisingly packed dining room for a chilly winter Tuesday night.

For the rest of February and well into March, Chef Christian will be serving a variety of rarer meats as part of the restaurant’s annual game festival. In addition to classic French fare like duck, steak, and veal kidneys, you can expect wilder visitors such as venison, quail, and even antelope!

The meal started with two game sausages: one made of pure venison and the other a mix of venison and wild boar with cheese and jalapeno peppers ground in for extra flavor. I had never tasted venison before, but had heard that it can taste quite gamey when not hunted or prepared properly. Gamey flavor, often described as musky or pungent, and tougher texture come from meat being left out for a time after hunting.

The venison sausage I tasted was salty and filling with flavors that reminded me a bit of spiced lamb though the texture was a little bit firmer. The wild boar variant was both peppery and a little sweet with a mouth feel that felt lighter and more traditional for sausage.  I would not call myself a game enthusiast quite yet, but I found the pure venison sausage to be pleasant and different in an earthy way.

venisonsausage

Venison Sausage and Venison and Wild Boa Sausage

 

Next I tried the escargot, which was slathered in garlic butter and parsley, a classic combination. It was a delightful appetizer bursting with succulent juiciness, savory flavor, and a light spring breeze of herbs. The texture of the snails was melt-in-your-mouth rather than chewy–delicate enough to make me forget what I was slurping!

escargot

Escargot in Garlic Butter and Parsley Sauce

The third course was both the simplest yet the most enthralling for me: a creamy red pepper bisque. With a kiss of cream and a dollop of potato, the dish had a wonderfully viscous texture whilst still remaining relatively light and frothy. I cannot stress enough that I really dislike bell peppers, but I adored this soup. The dish carried the full-bodied summer aroma and sweetness of the pepper, but bolstered and grounded it with a rich swirl of cream and salty potato. I’m sure Chef Christian could work wonders with any vegetable, but this seasonal bisque special was a total treat for me.

redpepperbisque

Red Pepper Bisque

The first main course we tried was cod served on a bed of lentils. Despite an intense aroma of fish stock around the dish, I found the fish flaky, light, and just right in terms of saltiness. Covered in cream and garnished with little peppery punches of mustard seed, the lentils made for a strong and filling contrast as a side.

CodandCreamyLentils.jpg

Cod and Creamy Lentils

The second main course we enjoyed was quail stuffed with goat cheese in a port wine sauce. The quail was delicate with crispy,  seared skin and savory meat without a trace of gamey flavor.  Quail is a bonier, smaller bird than chicken with more delicate morsels of meet. The sweet, slightly acidic sauce mingled beautifully with the billows of melted, salty-tangy goat cheese nestled within. It was served with wild rice and pureed sweet potato that balanced out the decadence nicely.  I’m told you get a pair of quail to gobble down when ordering off of the regular menu!

stuffedquail

Quail Stuffed with Goat Cheese, with Wild Rice and Pureed Sweet Potato

 

We began dessert with the smoothest creme brulee I’ve ever tasted. It was garnished with a perfectly ripe raspberry. I only wish it had been topped with more.

cremebrulee

Crème Brûlée

Following that was an incredibly fluffy apricot crepe with a scoop of vanilla ice cream. Chef Christian attributed the meticulous, eggy delicateness of the crepe’s thin layers to a simple flick of his wrist. The apricots were warm and spiced, melted down to a heavy syrup that had been expertly drizzled over the crepe to impart their flavor without leaving it soggy. It was a dazzling yet wonderfully understated dessert.

apricotcrepes

Apricot Crepe with Ice Cream and Mint

My second visit to Sel Et Poivre was a forest full of flavor. Between the game animals and artful arrangement of fruit and vegetable flavors, at times I felt like I was enjoying courses from the king’s last hunt at a medieval court feast.

Sel Et Poivre

Location: 853 Lexington Avenue (Between East 64th and 65th Streets)

Website: www.seletpoivrenyc.com

Phone:  212 – 517 – 5780

Lunch 12 PM-4 PM on Mondays through Fridays

Dinner is 4 PM-10:30 PM on Mondays through Thursdays, 4 PM to 11 PM on Fridays and Saturdays, 4 PM-10:30 PM on Sundays.

Brunch is 12 PM-4 PM on Saturdays and Sundays.

The game festival runs until mid March!

Take off with Flight!

Braving the harsh January cold, I attended a press dinner at Flight, a fairly new gastropub on the Upper East Side. After my last four months in London, I wasn’t sure if pub food was something I was wanting, but Flight’s eclectic menu alleviated that concern. Named after its various meat, seafood, and beverage sampler “flights”, Flight is an interesting and welcome addition to a neighborhood not particularly known for its dining options.

The restaurant’s atmosphere is much classier than your average pub with hanging lights and pictures of winged creatures and machines in keeping with the theme. Patrons have several seating options, including a full-service bar and a dedicated dining area, though it is the glass enclosed sidewalk café that will catch most diners’ attention.

FlightCafe

There are so many restaurants out there that think a dash of soy sauce or a hint of ginger makes a dish Asian, but Flight really utilizes its eastern culinary inspirations in a meaningful way. Hailing from India, Chef Golam has decades of experience with both Indian and Thai dishes that really shine!

We started off with the mussels. Chef Golam immediately demonstrated his flair for reinventing standard pub grub with this dish as he served it in a curry sauce. The mussels themselves were succulent and flavorful with the curry forming a fiery broth that warmed me up and sustained me for the rest of the meal, drawing me out of my winter hibernation. Golam even garnished the mussels with butternut squash, leveling out the heat with a little bit of sweetness.

Mussels in Thai Curry Sauce

Mussels in Thai Curry Sauce

Next, we were served a taste of the Thai meatball, made with a blend turkey and beef and served in a sweet chili sauce. It was a tender, delicious appetizer that cleansed the palette nicely. The dish was further accented with crispy fried onions for a little extra crunch and a great deal of flavor with a hint of lemongrass.

That Meat Ball

That Meat Ball

The fish and chips were solid and fairly standard. I found the chips a little too salted, but the fish, which was flaky and battered without an excess of grease was more enjoyable than any incarnation of the dish I had tasted in London.

Fish and Chips

Fish and Chips

My favorite dish by far was the Shepherd’s pie. Like the fish and chips, there wasn’t anything distinctly Thai added to it, but it was flawless in execution and a perfectly done pub staple. The vegetables were sautéed and flavorful with ample pieces of meat and a light, savory gravy beneath a bubbling, breaded dome. It was a take on the dish that could almost be likened to a classic bread-crumbed macaroni and cheese.

Shepherd's Pie

Shepherd’s Pie

Flight Shepherd's Pie Interior

Shepherd’s Pie Interior

For our last main course, Chef Golam presented us with his Thai Style Coconut Curry Chicken, served with mushrooms, herbs, and basmati rice. It utilized a similar peppery base to the mussels though not nearly as spicy—most likely a product of the coconut and something I very much enjoyed given my sensitive taste buds.

Coconut Curry Chicken

Coconut Curry Chicken

Dessert came with the Homemade Brownie with Vanilla Ice Cream in Chocolate Sauce, an enjoyable dessert prepared in-house. After so many hearty meat and seafood courses, the last thing I had been expecting was a homemade pastry treat from Golam.

Homemade Brownie with Vanilla Ice Cream and Chocolate Sauce

Homemade Brownie with Vanilla Ice Cream and Chocolate Sauce

In terms of drink offerings, Dermot Kelly, the restaurant’s owner and beverage director has cultivated an extensive selection of international wines, spirits, cocktails, and craft beers. He also promises to bring in live jazz music to entertain diners in the immediate future.

Happy Hour Comes with $5 on any Bar Appetizer, Select Draft Beers, House Wines, and Well Drinks!

Happy Hour Comes with $5 on any Bar Appetizer, Select Draft Beers, House Wines, and Well Drinks!

In all honesty, I’m not in the area too often, but the next time I find myself looking for a meal in the Upper East, Flight will definitely be somewhere I’m thrilled to revisit. Comfort food is rarely found in such a classy venue and never in the presence of fun Thai flavors!

Flight

Address: 1479 York Avenue (Between 78th & 79th Streets)

Website: www.flightnewyorkcity.com

Phone Number: (212) 988-5153

Hours

  • Lunch from 11:30 AM to 4:30 PM from Mondays to Fridays.
  • Dinner from 3:30 PM to 11:00 PM from Sundays through Wednesdays. 3:30 PM to 1:00 AM on Thursdays through Saturdays.
  • Brunch from 11:30 AM to 3:30 PM on Saturdays and Sundays
  • Happy Hour is 4 PM to 7 PM from Monday to Friday, 10 PM to 11 PM on Fridays and Saturdays.